Experience the Beauty of the Portuguese Coastal Camino: A Relaxed Journey with Charming Stays

We will meet in the morning in Matosinhos, the seaside area of Porto, known for its beaches popular among surfers, its busy port, and renowned fish restaurants. The name Matosinhos is intertwined with an ancient legend linked to Saint James and his iconic symbol, the shell. According to the tale, as the saint’s body was being transported to Galicia for burial, the boat carrying him passed in front of this very shore. Upon seeing it, a local pagan nobleman, seized by a sudden revelation, rode his horse across the waves toward the vessel and, upon reaching it, converted to Christianity. However, on his return to shore, he was engulfed by the sea—only to be miraculously saved by seashells rising from the ocean floor, keeping him afloat. This legend makes Matosinhos a fitting and symbolic place for us to begin our journey. Conveniently, it is easily accessible by metro from both the airport and Porto’s city center.

Our first stage covers 18.7 km, taking us along the stunning Atlantic coastline. We begin by crossing the suspension bridge over the port’s canal before heading north along the shore. Along the way, we will pass two iconic works by Portugal’s most renowned architect, Álvaro Siza: his beautifully designed oceanfront swimming pool and the Michelin-starred Casa da Boa Nova restaurant, both seamlessly integrated into the rocky coastline. As we continue, we will walk past secluded sandy coves and charming fishing villages, where colorful houses line the shore and fishing remains a traditional, family-run craft, unchanged for generations. We will pause often to take in the scenery and enjoy the moment, with a leisurely lunch in one of these villages. In the afternoon, we will continue north until we reach our destination, a tranquil beachside village where we will stop for the night. Arriving by mid-afternoon, you’ll have plenty of time to unwind, relax, and watch the sunset over the ocean. We will stay at On the Way - Mindelo Beach Guest House, a cozy and welcoming retreat, and enjoy dinner at a nearby restaurant.

We will begin the day with gentle warm-up exercises in the garden, followed by a delicious breakfast at the guest house—fueling ourselves for the 20.1 km ahead. As we leave the village, we will walk along a wooden walkway that stretches between the sea and a protected nature reserve. This delicate dune ecosystem is home to several bird species that nest here, and if we’re lucky, we may spot some of them in their natural habitat while carefully staying on the walkways. Further along, we will pass a windswept beach beloved by surfers and kitesurfers, where we can pause for some time. Crossing the Ave River, we will arrive in a small port city with a beautifully preserved historic center, dominated by two remarkable structures: the Monastery of Santa Clara and a 17th-century aqueduct stretching nearly 5 km, and considered to be one of the most beautiful in the world. We will likely stop here for lunch and take time to explore the charming streets or relax in a cafe or park. In the afternoon, we will continue north, passing through another coastal town with a long and storied history of fishing and maritime trade. Over the centuries, it has been shaped by diverse influences, including the Vikings, who are said to have left behind a proto-writing system of symbols akin to runes—still in use just a few generations ago. From here, only a few kilometers separate us from our destination for the night: Tivoli Estela Golf & Lodges, an elegant seafront resort nestled in nature, offering the perfect setting to rest and recharge.

We will start the day with warm-up exercises in the garden, followed by another delicious breakfast to prepare us for a stage of 19 km. Today, our path takes us slightly inland, following wooden walkways through a nature reserve of remarkable biodiversity. This protected area sits at the meeting point of several distinct ecosystems—where a river estuary, rolling dunes, the vast ocean, coastal marshes, and pine forests intertwine. It will be a peaceful and immersive walk, with plenty of opportunities to pause, take in the surrounding life, and simply enjoy the moment. Along the way, we will pass through just two small villages, one of which is Apúlia. Thought to have been founded by settlers from the Italian region of Apulia during Roman times, the village is known for its traditional practice of harvesting algae to fertilize vegetable gardens, which are planted in small dug-out plots within the dunes. This region is also home to several fascinating historical sites, including one of the world’s oldest megalithic stone ship structures, which we may decide to visit if we feel inclined. After crossing the river that marks the boundary of the nature reserve, we will arrive in Esposende, a small coastal city with a charming historic center and a scenic promenade. Here, we will take a well-deserved break for lunch before setting off on the final stretch of the day. From Esposende, we have another 7 to 8 km to reach our accommodation for the night, Antas Guest House—a beautifully restored manor house dating back to 1860. Surrounded by vast gardens and a swimming pool, this elegant retreat offers a serene and comfortable setting to unwind and savor the end of another rewarding day.

This morning, I will prepare a delicious and nutritious breakfast for everyone before we set off on our journey. Today’s stage will be a shorter one, covering just 16.4 km, but it will include two gentle ascents of around 100 meters each, followed by their corresponding descents, as we continue walking slightly inland, parallel to the coast. The reward for these climbs is well worth it—we will pass through some of the most beautiful forests of the entire walk and cross a picturesque little creek, adding a magical touch to the day's route. Our path will take us along old cobblestone trails, weaving in and out of small villages where life moves at a slower pace. We will likely stop in one of them for a relaxed lunch before continuing towards a remarkable feat of 19th-century engineering—the iron bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel. This striking double-deck structure, built to accommodate both trains and motor vehicles, will lead us across the river into Viana do Castelo, our destination for the day. Viana do Castelo is one of Portugal’s most beautiful cities, rich in maritime heritage and famed for its golden filigree pendants, which take center stage during its vibrant summer festivities. We will be staying at AP Dona Aninhas, a charming boutique hotel right in the heart of the historic center. Arriving by early afternoon, we’ll have plenty of time to drop off our bags and explore the city’s blend of old and new—from its proud seafaring past, showcased in a floating naval museum, to its modern industries, including shipbuilding and renewable energy. The city also boasts architectural gems by renowned Portuguese architects such as Fernando Távora and Souto de Moura. The true highlight, however, is the breathtaking panoramic view from Santa Luzia, a basilica perched on a hilltop and inspired by Paris’s Sacré-Cœur. From this vantage point, we can take in the stunning scenery of the estuary, the coastline stretching north and south, and the sweeping sandy bay below—perhaps the perfect spot to watch the sunset before returning to the city for a warm and delightful dinner.

After a good night’s sleep, we will wake up to a delicious breakfast at the hotel, nourishing ourselves for another day—the last full day of our journey within Portugal. Today’s stage covers 20.4 km, taking us north along a narrow green corridor between the ocean and the western slopes of the rising hills. Our path will lead us along charming, narrow cobbled roads that wind between fields and sleepy villages, with occasional glimpses of the Atlantic appearing between the trees and rooftops. Along the way, we will likely spot the traditional windmills that dot the coastal dunes, once used for grinding grain and a distinctive feature of this region. At midday, we will take a well-deserved break for lunch—perhaps on an outdoor terrace, if the weather is kind, allowing us to soak in the sun and the refreshing sea breeze. In the afternoon, our journey will take us through a peaceful forest and a 6th-century convent before we return to the seaside at Vila Praia de Âncora, our destination for the night. This charming village, framed by mountains and a picturesque bay, boasts calm waters where small boats bob alongside swimmers. A scenic promenade runs along the shore, lined with inviting cafés and restaurants, while a historic fort guards one end of the beach. The small, character-filled historic quarter offers a perfect setting for an afternoon stroll and a chance to chat with the locals. We will stay at Quinta da Quinhas, a beautifully restored estate set in nature just outside the village. Run by an energetic couple passionate about the Camino, the quinta offers cozy rooms converted from former agricultural purposes, blending rustic charm with comfort. The estate often hosts workshops on farm life, so we may even have some experience of that. With peaceful surroundings, welcoming hospitality, and a touch of rural tradition, it will be the perfect home to relax, recharge, and prepare for the next stage of our journey.

We will begin the day with our usual warm-up and stretching exercises in the garden, followed by a relaxed self-service breakfast before setting off on today’s 17.5 km stage. Our path unfolds along the sea, offering our first distant glimpse of Spain in the striking, cone-shaped mountain of Santa Trega rising on the horizon. This stunning coastal landscape invites a slow pace, with plenty of stops to take it all in. Before long, we arrive in the small village of Moledo, a seaside retreat long favored by Portugal’s political and artistic elite. Facing its sandy bay, a small rocky island houses a centuries-old fortress, originally built as an insular convent in the 15th century and now reachable by boat. Continuing north, we soon reach Caminha, the last town on our journey through Portugal. Nestled on the banks of the Minho River, which forms the natural border with Spain, Caminha boasts a beautifully preserved historic center— a testament to its golden age as a thriving commercial hub. Here, we will enjoy our final Portuguese lunch, soaking in the riverside atmosphere and rich architectural heritage.It is the perfect setting to bid farewell to Portugal before boarding the ferry across the Minho into Spain. Stepping onto Galician soil, we are met with a sense of curiosity and openness to this new land—though in many ways, seeming like a continuation. Galicia and Portugal share deep historical and cultural ties, a fraternity of people with common traditions and a language that shifts only slightly as we cross the border. One thing that does change, however, is the timezone. Now one hour ahead, we continue our journey with a few more kilometers through a dense forest along the coastline before reaching A Guarda, a picturesque fishing village that we will call home for the night. Our stay will be in a beautifully restored 16th-century convent overlooking the harbor—an elegant retreat where we can rest, reflect, and savor the journey so far.

We begin the day with our usual warm-up exercises, perhaps outside by the harbor, followed by a delicious breakfast at the hotel, before setting off on today’s 17.1 km stage. The trail leads us along rugged cliffs, with the vast ocean stretching endlessly to our left and forested mountains rising to our right. This is raw and wild country—its rocky shores battered by choppy seas and relentless storms. Scattered along the way, we may find a solitary cross or a weathered bench, silent tributes to the overpowering forces of nature that have inspired both devotion and quiet contemplation for centuries. This is a walk to be savored. We will pause often, taking in the scenery and absorbing the spirit of the place—one that echoes the mystical allure of Finisterra, the legendary “end of the earth” that many pilgrims seek after Santiago. Along today’s route, we will pass only a couple of small settlements, stopping for lunch in one of them. The most notable is Oia, a village rooted in centuries of monastic tradition. Some believe its origins trace back to the 6th or 7th century, though historical records attribute the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Oia to the 12th century, with later modifications shaping the structure we see today. Here, amid the dramatic coastal landscape, we will delve into the stories and legends that have woven themselves into the local imagination—tales as rich and colorful as the land itself. Our journey ends just north of Oia at Hotel Glasgow, a comfortable seaside retreat where we can unwind, lulled by the rhythmic sound of the waves.

We begin the day with warm-up and stretching exercises in the garden, followed by breakfast at the hotel, gazing out at the sea as it calls us to another day of walking. Today’s stage is the shortest of our journey at just 14.9 km, yet it brings a striking shift in landscape and atmosphere. Continuing along yesterday’s path, the rugged cliffs and restless ocean soon give way to the serene turquoise waters and sandy coves of the Vigo estuary. The transition is marked by Cape Silleiro, where a lighthouse stands watch over a beach renowned for its polished crystals and tide-carved rock pools. We will have time to have lunch around here or make our way to Baiona, the famed seaside resort that will host us tonight. We can chill at the beach, wander the fortified walls of the castle crowning its peninsula, or climb into the pine-covered hills to stand beneath the monumental Virgin of the Rock. From the heights, the view is spectacular—the vast ocean stretching to one side, the broad estuary to the other, and the distant Cíes Islands where the two waters meet. Tonight, we stay at Pazo Mendoza, a beautifully restored historic building in the medieval heart of Baiona—an ideal base to both explore our surroundings and soak in the history as well as rest and savor the journey.

Today’s stage covers 20.9 km, taking us from the historic town of Baiona to the vibrant city of Vigo. To start the day on a high note, I will treat you all to breakfast at a local café, where we can enjoy fresh pastries, good coffee, and perhaps a taste of Galicia’s famous almond cake. With energy levels up, we will set off on our journey. A few kilometers after leaving Baiona, we will reach A Ramallosa, a small yet historically significant village straddling the Miñor River. For millennia, this river crossing has been a vital thoroughfare, as evidenced by the medieval bridge we will traverse. Though its current form dates back to the 13th century, it is believed to have been built over an even older Roman structure. Halfway across, we will pause to observe the statue of San Telmo, the patron saint of sailors, who, according to legend, helped reconstruct the bridge after its destruction by Moorish invaders. From here, we will have a choice: follow the official Camino route, which takes us slightly inland through a mix of small towns and forested paths, or opt for an alternative coastal trail that hugs the shoreline, revealing beautiful beaches and hidden coves. Depending on how we feel and the weather conditions, we can decide on the spot which route to take. Regardless of our choice, we will encounter plenty of tempting food options along the way—perhaps an opportunity to sample some of Galicia’s renowned tapas. As we approach Vigo, the landscape shifts, becoming busier and more urban, as we would expect, since it is Galicia’s largest city. Fortunately, our hotel, Attica 21 Vigo, is located in a tranquil area by Playa Samil, a stunning kilometer-long stretch of sand facing the Cíes Islands. This luxurious and comfortable retreat offers the perfect setting to unwind, with a wellness and spa center and the beach, just steps away. To close the day, we can venture into town for dinner and indulge in Vigo’s renowned gastronomy.

Today is one of the longest stages of the entire journey, at 22.6 km. Thankfully, after walking for 9 days, we are in good shape, and we’ve had the luxury of a relaxing stay at a spa hotel to recharge. To make sure we are all properly warmed up and ready, we’ll begin the day with our usual stretching exercises, followed by a hearty breakfast at the hotel. Our day starts with a walk through Vigo, passing along its bustling fishing port—one of the largest in the world. This area is the beating heart of the city, and we’ll get to witness its industrial energy juxtaposed with impressive large-scale sculptures and public art installations scattered throughout. As we make our way toward the center, we will wind around Castro Hill Park, where we can explore the ruins of the original pre-Roman settlement and be treated to stunning views. Crossing the city will make up almost half of today’s stage, and since there will be no food options until we reach Redondela, our destination for the day, we’ll stop for a light lunch or snack just as we leave. Around here, we will see the milestone marking 100 km to Santiago. We will then begin a gentle climb of about 100 meters, which will reward us with magnificent views over the coastline, the estuary, and the iconic bridge that spans across it. The path will continue at this elevation, taking us through peaceful forest trails and past a beautiful waterfall. As we start our descent, we will soon approach Redondela, where we’ll spot the iconic elevated railway bridges that crisscross the town—an emblematic feature of this small city built out of iron in the 19th century. We’ll stay at two recently renovated apartments, tastefully decorated in the historic centre of the city, and enjoy a more intimate town environment with its beautifully kept parks and pedestrianized areas. After some rest, we can go out for a leisurely afternoon stroll before enjoying some local tapas and calling it a day.

Today’s stage is 19.9 km. While it is not the longest, we will encounter two steep ascents of about 140 meters, along with their corresponding descents, which will certainly keep us on our toes. To fuel up for the journey ahead, I will prepare a nutritious and energizing breakfast for everyone before we set off. This stage marks an interesting transition in our journey as we leave the Atlantic coast behind and venture into the heart of rural Galicia. The landscape transforms into an evergreen mosaic of dense forests and cultivated fields, crisscrossed by rivers and creeks, with granite villages dotting the scenery. These villages, with their iconic "espigueiros" (elevated granaries), "cruzeiros" (typical crucifixes), and the countless legends that go with them, will accompany us for the rest of our journey, all the way to Santiago de Compostela. As we continue, we will also merge paths with the other route of the Portuguese Camino, the Central Route, which comes from Porto through the hinterland. Most interestingly, we are now traveling along the ancient Roman route known as Vía XIX, built over 2,000 years ago to connect what is now the Portuguese city of Braga to the Spanish town of Astorga in Asturias. In some sections, we will walk on the same cobblestones and pass by the surviving Roman milestones, which still stand as silent witnesses to history. Halfway through the stage, we will reach Ponte Sampaio, a village known for its medieval bridge over the River Verdugo. This bridge, a later iteration of a Roman structure, played a key role in the region’s communication network and is known for a decisive battle that ended the occupation by the Napoleonic army. It’s a perfect spot to take a break, have lunch, and rest before continuing our journey. From there, we will dive back into the lush greenery of the forest, following a tranquil footpath that winds its way through the trees. Soon, we will arrive at our destination for the day: Pontevedra. This is one of the most historically significant cities in Galicia, and its rich heritage is beautifully showcased in its well-preserved historic center. We will settle here for the day in a beautifully restored boutique hotel called La Fonda and after a bit of rest venture out to explore the lively streets and charming plazas as well as enjoy a delicious dinner.

At 21.0 km, today’s stage is once again on the longer side. To ensure we start off strong, I’ll treat everyone to a fulfilling breakfast at a café in the city before we set out towards our destination: Caldas de Reis. Leaving Pontevedra, we will cross a bridge—a medieval version of the original Roman Ponte Veteri, from which the city takes its name. From here, we continue our journey meandering in and out of lush forests, following gentle paths with no significant ascents or descents. Along the way, we will cross small stone bridges, pass by the ever-present "espigueiros" and "cruzeiros," and encounter one particularly striking crucifix featuring a statue of St. James himself, solemnly pointing the way towards Santiago. There won’t be any food options for the first 9 km, so before we leave, we should stock up on snacks to keep us energized during our pauses. Around the halfway mark, we’ll stop for a well-deserved lunch and take a break before resuming our walk. Waiting for us in Caldas de Reis are the famous thermal waters that have drawn visitors since Roman times. The very name of the town—meaning "Royal Hot Springs"—speaks to its long-standing reputation for relaxation and healing. In the town center, we will find a fountain where mineral-rich waters flow from the mouths of two sculpted lions, as well as a number of inviting spas where we can indulge in their soothing properties. For our stay, we will settle into a recently renovated hotel connected to the town’s deep-rooted thermal culture, Pensión Caldea. Beyond the healing waters, there is also a beautiful botanical garden along the river, dating back to the 14th century, where we can take a leisurely stroll among centuries-old oaks and a stunning collection of camellias while enjoying the local specialities of empanadas and butter bread. To end the day, we will have of course a more substantial dinner before and our well-earned rest.

Today marks the longest stage of our entire journey at 22.7 km, and it is also the penultimate day of our walk. Yet, despite the distance, this stage is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful, as we continue through Galicia’s enchanting forests, passing small waterfalls and crystal-clear rivers where we can pause to take in the serenity of nature. With just 45 km remaining to Santiago, now is the time to savor every moment of the journey. We will begin the day with our usual warm-up and stretching exercises at the hotel before heading out for breakfast in the city. Once on the trail, we will soon find ourselves immersed in the tranquility of the woods, following the meandering course of the Bermaña River and then alongside the Valga River and its traditional water mills. Villages and food options will be scarce along the way, so carrying some snacks is advisable. We will find, however, places to stop for lunch and, more importantly, plenty of idyllic spots to put down our backpacks, rest, and soak in the surroundings. After crossing the Ulla River, we will arrive in Padrón. According to legend, this is where the beheaded body of St. James arrived from Jerusalem, carried by an unmanned stone boat guided by angels and a star. From here, his remains were taken overland to what is now Santiago. This symbolic site, which we will reach after about 18.7 km, will be a great place to pause in the afternoon before continuing the final stretch to our accommodation. Perhaps we can even enjoy a light meal here and sample the town’s famous grilled green peppers. For our stay tonight, we will retreat to a beautiful country house called Casa de Teo in a small rustic village. Spacious and elegantly restored, it offers modern comforts while preserving its traditional charm. Here, we can prepare a meal together with fresh groceries picked up in Padrón and enjoy a relaxing dinner on the terrace, surrounded by rolling green hills—the perfect way to unwind before our final day on the Camino.

The final stage of our journey spans 19.0 km. While not among the longest, it will certainly be one of the most demanding in terms of elevation. With a total ascent of approximately 500 meters, the path to Santiago will challenge us with steep climbs. We will be guided onward though by the spirit of the Camino lingering in the villages, churches and crosses traversed by countless pilgrims over the centuries. We will pause often to appreciate their enduring presence, recognizing the footsteps we now follow, and stop in one of these villages for a well-earned lunch. As we draw closer to Santiago, the transition from countryside to cityscape becomes more evident and the granite villages and forested paths gradually give way to modern suburbs and industrial areas. Yet, even as the urban landscape unfolds, remnants of the ancient Camino endure as we tread here and there once again upon the timeworn cobblestones that have become so familiar to us over these past two weeks. At 250 meters above sea level, we will reach Agro de los Monteiros, where the city of Santiago suddenly reveals itself before us. Rising above the rooftops, the towers of the cathedral stand tall, marking our long-awaited destination - the finishing line now within reach. We will first make a stop at our hotel though, the Exe Peregrino at the city’s entrance, before making our way to the Plaza del Obradoiro, where hundreds of pilgrims from all routes and corners of the world come together. Sitting in front of the cathedral, we will allow ourselves to fully embrace the moment, letting the emotions of the journey settle within us. Later, we will visit the Pilgrim’s Reception Office to present our credentials, filled with the many stamps we have collected along the way, and receive the final one together with the Compostela - a once essential document for proving the completion of the pilgrimage. Though the Camino de Santiago originated as a religious pilgrimage to the tomb of St. James, it has evolved into something far greater. Today, it brings together people from all walks of life, transcending cultures, backgrounds, and beliefs. On our last evening together, we will take the time to reflect on this extraordinary experience—what we have seen, how we have felt, and the ways in which we have changed. Bound by this shared journey, we will celebrate the connection we have forged, cherishing the joy and gratitude it has brought us. The following morning, we will have our last breakfast together at the hotel before parting ways. Some may return to Porto by bus with me - covering in just four hours the distance that took us 14 days to walk - and others will continue on their own paths. Either way, all of us will carry the warmth of this unforgettable journey and the countless memories of our time spent together.